Bayerländerweg alpine climbing, Allgäu 2015
540 meters of lonely alpine climbing on Allgäu rock. No phone reception, no quick exit. Bayerländerweg is real alpine, but it's also more than an alpine climb. Four times more, to be precise. Like bike'n'hike but with an all-alpine touch, one gets to combine biking, climbing, old school via ferrata and hiking in a single day - and there's plenty of all! When I pause right there before the details, doesn't it sound wonderful?
(Aspirant climber? Scroll down below the photos for details on the climb.)
Although we have talked about it for a couple of years now, we never really got around. There was always something about the weather: too much snow, or too few dry sunny days in a row, too high risk for thunder or too little daylight. Meanwhile the project evolved differently in our minds: for me it became a dream to fulfil, while Markus needed more and more convincing. Especially after our tour along the east ridge of Widderstein he was determined to hereafter keep to solid rock.
But I was insistent. To aid my cause I had done a personal topo including happy and sad smileys indicating the pitch quality, deduced from previous tour reports. Our respective lead pitches were then divided equally among us smiley-wise: we both had three sad smileys and four happy ones. Shared responsibility; a fair plan.
Now, we had just come home from a short climbing trip to Uri in Switzerland and barely tamed the chaos of coming home. Tent dried and tucked away, 6 machines of laundry washed (!) and the climbing gear still spread all over the hallway. And suddenly, there it was: A stable weather report. It fitted the purpose perfectly: after two dry days there would be a hot sunny day with a clear, starlit night - no thunder. The game was on.
To reach the foot of Westliche Wengenköpfle in a reasonable time we started biking at 5 am from Hindelang. It's a 11 km and 600 altitude meter distance before sunrise, in the hour when the birds awaken. And already it was getting hot... Having tarmac beneath the wheels was comforting - we might well be back after dark, bruised and weary. Not the best time to practice biking technique.
And so Wankhütte appeared at the end of the road, deserted and quiet amidst flowering meadows, surrounded by impressive walls that loomed in the dawn as the sun began to caress the upper ridges. What a remarkable ending.
But of course, we'd barely even started! The bikes were deposited under a spruce tree by the hut, some air let out from the tires to avoid them exploding in the heat, and already it was time to ascend to our route. The sweet scent of Alpenrosen followed us and we both had children's songs playing in our minds. Seems like we were in a good mood today! Some 50 m above the lowest point of the rock we found two cairns and a bolt. I made a belay stand and soon enough Markus was off.
We have read that the first two and the last two pitches would be of lesser rock quality, and the two easy scramble parts in the middle more like gravel pits. The remaining 8 pitches should offer good quality climbing. However, we found it thoroughly enjoyable already from the 2nd pitch. Naturally one often has to tread with care, but we never had any problem to leave the rock where it was. Well, until the 6th pitch, that is: The second of the two long scrambles.
I happened to lead this pitch and was so pleased about the first half (there were even a couple of placements for own protection!) that I thought nothing could go wrong. Then eventually, the rope was out and I couldn't find the belay stand. One would think that since the pitch should be 50 meters and our ropes were 50 meters it should be simple... Right? Nope. That particular place is an unorderly mess of rocks, loose and solid, called a "ridge". I climbed up to a slab to the right, nothing. Then searched the scattered rocks to my left to no avail. Nothing above me nor below; down climbing, up climbing, down climbing, and in the process sending down more loose scree.
Puzzled, I eventually made a belay stand on two solid cams further down and took up Markus. He was soon off in the presumed direction of the next pitch, and luckily, found it. Things were clearing up. He made another improvised stand mid-way. And as I followed, I finally found my proper belay stand further up and to the left of where I had already been. Frome this stand I could belay Markus the rest of his pitch - we were finally in phase again, but with a lot of precious time lost.
The following pitches went smooth. The rock was generally really good and the climbing fun. In a few places we would have preferred an additional bolt, but on steeper sections it was always just about enough.
We found the ascent book somewhere on the upper half and noted that seven teams had gone before us this year, 22 in total last year and 7 in 2013. That's about enough - one wouldn't want another rope team above the head. Also, the experience of vastness and solittude is more true when climbing alone on a big wall above a tucked away, unfrequented valley.
I had one single desperate moment on the 13th pitch. After a long distance impossible to protect (believe me, I tried every grimy crack), I was standing half awkwardly on a short vertical section. The footholds were good enough, but nothing satisfactory for the hands to compensate the risk of that long potential fall. Desperately I tried slinging a rock above, only to realize it was loose, too, and while unslinging it again I twisted my knee back and forth a couple of times. Agony.
I made it up somehow but the knee was hurting strangely, and would continue to do so for the rest of the very long way back.
The last, 55 meter long pitch was divided into two parts without hassle, and so finally, we were up!Hungry and hot, exposed to the blazing sun after all this time in complete shade. And yet, being "up" is relative. Right after the end of the climb there is some 100 meters to walk on steep grassy scree. Ouch, knee, ouch. We actually went on long rope because I felt rather out of condition.
At a saddle one is then blessed with less sloping grass. We couldn't resist the temptation to sit down for a little feast on all that the backpack could offer, trying also to fight the silently advancing water deficiency.
Some 60 meters of climbing, grade 2 or so, must yet be managed before even reaching the Hindelanger Klettersteig at the summit ridge. And if one thinks for a moment that all finally ends here, one is still quite far from truth.
Arrived at the via ferrata near the Westlicher Wengenköpfle summit, we hurried on towards Nebelhorn, me trying to step downwards only with the uninjured knee. After more than an hour of up and down, up and down along the via ferrata (which, by the way is more alpine than ferrata, with several unbelayed exposed sections, and only recommendable to the sure-footed), we finally reached the Nebelhorn top station. Clothes drenched with sweat even though we were lucky with a huge cloud obscuring the sun. We were late enough to be alone - what a blessing.
The path then continues downhill from the station to pass below Gundkopf, only to ascend again over Geissfuss which is the first of two mountain passes to cross. Little birds twittered at us, for once their kind unknown, and chamois stirred far below in the deserted valley before the pass. And as we had descended on the other side, we were struck by the beauty of the two alpine lakes, upper and lower Gaisalpsee, mirroring the turbulent sky in the late afternoon tranquility. We were all alone and the mountains alive. Chamois grazing nearby, sunbathing, living their lives. Alpine birds twittering. And above us heaven put on a marvellous show of backlit clouds. Although we were slow to walk it was still a joy.
We had somehow thought that once Gängele, the last mountain pass was crossed we would have made it. But alas, the upper part of Retterschwanger valley is so very drawn out, our goal so dreadfully distant… As we had finally descended to the height of the start of Bayerländerweg, the route was glowing in the last evening sun.
Thankfully we found our bikes in good shape. Pedalling was almost too much on sore foot soles, but luckily, there's not much needed, since for the next 20 minutes it's mainly all downhill.
Biking, alpine climbing, via ferrata and hiking - a stupendous tour well deserving to be called an Allgäu gem. It is wonderful. Though I would love to return, there are few days a year when this undertaking really makes "sense"… At least for the next few days we will be quite content with a peaceful picnic in the garden.
Written by Sandra
Read More(Aspirant climber? Scroll down below the photos for details on the climb.)
Although we have talked about it for a couple of years now, we never really got around. There was always something about the weather: too much snow, or too few dry sunny days in a row, too high risk for thunder or too little daylight. Meanwhile the project evolved differently in our minds: for me it became a dream to fulfil, while Markus needed more and more convincing. Especially after our tour along the east ridge of Widderstein he was determined to hereafter keep to solid rock.
But I was insistent. To aid my cause I had done a personal topo including happy and sad smileys indicating the pitch quality, deduced from previous tour reports. Our respective lead pitches were then divided equally among us smiley-wise: we both had three sad smileys and four happy ones. Shared responsibility; a fair plan.
Now, we had just come home from a short climbing trip to Uri in Switzerland and barely tamed the chaos of coming home. Tent dried and tucked away, 6 machines of laundry washed (!) and the climbing gear still spread all over the hallway. And suddenly, there it was: A stable weather report. It fitted the purpose perfectly: after two dry days there would be a hot sunny day with a clear, starlit night - no thunder. The game was on.
To reach the foot of Westliche Wengenköpfle in a reasonable time we started biking at 5 am from Hindelang. It's a 11 km and 600 altitude meter distance before sunrise, in the hour when the birds awaken. And already it was getting hot... Having tarmac beneath the wheels was comforting - we might well be back after dark, bruised and weary. Not the best time to practice biking technique.
And so Wankhütte appeared at the end of the road, deserted and quiet amidst flowering meadows, surrounded by impressive walls that loomed in the dawn as the sun began to caress the upper ridges. What a remarkable ending.
But of course, we'd barely even started! The bikes were deposited under a spruce tree by the hut, some air let out from the tires to avoid them exploding in the heat, and already it was time to ascend to our route. The sweet scent of Alpenrosen followed us and we both had children's songs playing in our minds. Seems like we were in a good mood today! Some 50 m above the lowest point of the rock we found two cairns and a bolt. I made a belay stand and soon enough Markus was off.
We have read that the first two and the last two pitches would be of lesser rock quality, and the two easy scramble parts in the middle more like gravel pits. The remaining 8 pitches should offer good quality climbing. However, we found it thoroughly enjoyable already from the 2nd pitch. Naturally one often has to tread with care, but we never had any problem to leave the rock where it was. Well, until the 6th pitch, that is: The second of the two long scrambles.
I happened to lead this pitch and was so pleased about the first half (there were even a couple of placements for own protection!) that I thought nothing could go wrong. Then eventually, the rope was out and I couldn't find the belay stand. One would think that since the pitch should be 50 meters and our ropes were 50 meters it should be simple... Right? Nope. That particular place is an unorderly mess of rocks, loose and solid, called a "ridge". I climbed up to a slab to the right, nothing. Then searched the scattered rocks to my left to no avail. Nothing above me nor below; down climbing, up climbing, down climbing, and in the process sending down more loose scree.
Puzzled, I eventually made a belay stand on two solid cams further down and took up Markus. He was soon off in the presumed direction of the next pitch, and luckily, found it. Things were clearing up. He made another improvised stand mid-way. And as I followed, I finally found my proper belay stand further up and to the left of where I had already been. Frome this stand I could belay Markus the rest of his pitch - we were finally in phase again, but with a lot of precious time lost.
The following pitches went smooth. The rock was generally really good and the climbing fun. In a few places we would have preferred an additional bolt, but on steeper sections it was always just about enough.
We found the ascent book somewhere on the upper half and noted that seven teams had gone before us this year, 22 in total last year and 7 in 2013. That's about enough - one wouldn't want another rope team above the head. Also, the experience of vastness and solittude is more true when climbing alone on a big wall above a tucked away, unfrequented valley.
I had one single desperate moment on the 13th pitch. After a long distance impossible to protect (believe me, I tried every grimy crack), I was standing half awkwardly on a short vertical section. The footholds were good enough, but nothing satisfactory for the hands to compensate the risk of that long potential fall. Desperately I tried slinging a rock above, only to realize it was loose, too, and while unslinging it again I twisted my knee back and forth a couple of times. Agony.
I made it up somehow but the knee was hurting strangely, and would continue to do so for the rest of the very long way back.
The last, 55 meter long pitch was divided into two parts without hassle, and so finally, we were up!Hungry and hot, exposed to the blazing sun after all this time in complete shade. And yet, being "up" is relative. Right after the end of the climb there is some 100 meters to walk on steep grassy scree. Ouch, knee, ouch. We actually went on long rope because I felt rather out of condition.
At a saddle one is then blessed with less sloping grass. We couldn't resist the temptation to sit down for a little feast on all that the backpack could offer, trying also to fight the silently advancing water deficiency.
Some 60 meters of climbing, grade 2 or so, must yet be managed before even reaching the Hindelanger Klettersteig at the summit ridge. And if one thinks for a moment that all finally ends here, one is still quite far from truth.
Arrived at the via ferrata near the Westlicher Wengenköpfle summit, we hurried on towards Nebelhorn, me trying to step downwards only with the uninjured knee. After more than an hour of up and down, up and down along the via ferrata (which, by the way is more alpine than ferrata, with several unbelayed exposed sections, and only recommendable to the sure-footed), we finally reached the Nebelhorn top station. Clothes drenched with sweat even though we were lucky with a huge cloud obscuring the sun. We were late enough to be alone - what a blessing.
The path then continues downhill from the station to pass below Gundkopf, only to ascend again over Geissfuss which is the first of two mountain passes to cross. Little birds twittered at us, for once their kind unknown, and chamois stirred far below in the deserted valley before the pass. And as we had descended on the other side, we were struck by the beauty of the two alpine lakes, upper and lower Gaisalpsee, mirroring the turbulent sky in the late afternoon tranquility. We were all alone and the mountains alive. Chamois grazing nearby, sunbathing, living their lives. Alpine birds twittering. And above us heaven put on a marvellous show of backlit clouds. Although we were slow to walk it was still a joy.
We had somehow thought that once Gängele, the last mountain pass was crossed we would have made it. But alas, the upper part of Retterschwanger valley is so very drawn out, our goal so dreadfully distant… As we had finally descended to the height of the start of Bayerländerweg, the route was glowing in the last evening sun.
Thankfully we found our bikes in good shape. Pedalling was almost too much on sore foot soles, but luckily, there's not much needed, since for the next 20 minutes it's mainly all downhill.
Biking, alpine climbing, via ferrata and hiking - a stupendous tour well deserving to be called an Allgäu gem. It is wonderful. Though I would love to return, there are few days a year when this undertaking really makes "sense"… At least for the next few days we will be quite content with a peaceful picnic in the garden.
Written by Sandra
