Kleiner Widderstein Traverse alpine climbing
The Kleiner Widderstein traverse, starting from Bärenkopf in Kleinwaslertal and passing the north (2236 m) and south summit of Kleiner Widderrstein, is somewhere inbetween a difficult mountain tour and an easy alpine ridge climb. The first part, to the north summit, is considered easier (II, or III depending on the route choice) and the locals usually do it unroped. The second part is considered somewhat more difficult (sections of III). It can be done without rope, but the ridge is quite exposed and in places rather loose.
Being our first time here we chose a 30 m rope and a set of cams and slings to belay the traverse. We found running belay to be difficult in the complex terrain, and often chose to build proper belay stands. Thus we were rather slow as compared to those who do this as a mountain tour, taking 9 hours from the parking in Baad and back, or about 5 hours on the actual traverse. That said, we sometimes chose more interesting routes than the easiest, opting for the best rock quality. We had plenty of rewarding climbing on narrow ridges - all in beautiful alpine surroundings.
Apart from one place (where we probably didn't pick the best way), we had no problems with loose rock - either it was easy enough, or we could pick a way with better quality rock. If we compare this with the Grosser Widderstein east ridge ("gesamter Ostgrat"), the Kleiner Widderstein traverse is a substaintially less serious effort (which might explain why this route is repeated every now and then, while the east ridge of Grosser Widderstein is barely repeated at all).
To sum up the climb, we had a great day on the traverse and would recommend this tour to others, given a solid alpine experience and a joy for the "Allgäu typical terrain".
Read MoreBeing our first time here we chose a 30 m rope and a set of cams and slings to belay the traverse. We found running belay to be difficult in the complex terrain, and often chose to build proper belay stands. Thus we were rather slow as compared to those who do this as a mountain tour, taking 9 hours from the parking in Baad and back, or about 5 hours on the actual traverse. That said, we sometimes chose more interesting routes than the easiest, opting for the best rock quality. We had plenty of rewarding climbing on narrow ridges - all in beautiful alpine surroundings.
Apart from one place (where we probably didn't pick the best way), we had no problems with loose rock - either it was easy enough, or we could pick a way with better quality rock. If we compare this with the Grosser Widderstein east ridge ("gesamter Ostgrat"), the Kleiner Widderstein traverse is a substaintially less serious effort (which might explain why this route is repeated every now and then, while the east ridge of Grosser Widderstein is barely repeated at all).
To sum up the climb, we had a great day on the traverse and would recommend this tour to others, given a solid alpine experience and a joy for the "Allgäu typical terrain".
