Uri climbing July 2015: Part 2/3

Göscheneralp Bergseeschijen (2815)

We were determined to avoid slabs today. Thinking we had now understood our guide book, we chose the Bergseeschijen and its south wall. It would soon be apparent that this was a complete misinterpretation of topo symbols... All the routes (there are several on the wall) start with at least two slab pitches before they all steepen. From right below one can see only the 3 first pitches of any climb - thus there could in principle be more slabs up there…

All the routes are said to be more or less well protected with fresh bolts, which sounded good to us. One thing we didn't quite like was how busy it was all over the place. With the quick 30 min approach from the Bergsee hut (or some 1h45 from the valley as we did, including a stop at the Bergsee hut for water refill), it is one of the most popular areas in the Uri according to SummitPost. In all the hubbub we chose the lonely rightmost route, SE-Pfeiler (5c) out on a buttress. We weren't even sure if we were understanding this right, guessing that we must traverse to the right from the start of Via Esther to get to the route. This was confirmed by our friends later on (although I think it actually starts lower down? That's what a lack of preparations can do…). I was feeling oddly anxious in the morning. It was possibly a mistake to share those feelings with Markus and thereby put more responsibility on him: he wouldn't come to have a very good morning, either. Anyway, Markus traversed into the unknown, putting a couple of pro in along the way and was soon out of sight.

After a while I gathered that he had spotted and clipped a bolt, but no more was to be found. We'd later learn that this is also correct: there are two bolts on the pitch and unfortunately also a bit difficult to protect at that place (read this for a reference). The pronounced crack in line with the route is rather flared. The climbing is easy, but Markus didn't look forward to the prospect of 10 pitches protected like this one. And so he down-climbed all the way back to me.

We stood for a while and pondered on our options. Would I go where he just came down? Or try another of the routes on the face, now that most other teams were further up? Or should we leave altogether and just have ourselves a nice picnic? By now all morning had passed. While finally heading back along the face, to the left from where we had come, we passed the route Via Andrea (5a). (Or rather we assume it was Andrea; route names are faded except "Tonis Lust".)Suddenly I felt that strong urge to give it a try. Though Markus was still reluctant with the slabs and all, he kindly let me go for it. The pitch was actually fun - rather sparse belay for my liking (and other's, too) but definitely manageable. I was stoked and wanted to do the next pitch as well.

But by now my dear mate was quite fed up. To be fair it wasn't only the slabs and the hurting feet. Far above us a rope team was time and again shouting like mad. Problem was, we could never quite hear if they shouted "Stand" or "Stein" (rock fall). Further away there had actually been a rock fall and we couldn't be sure - their voices did sound quite desperate, every time. Being hit by a rock that had fallen some 150 m could be the last thing we'd do. Markus and I have been climbing together happily for years and intend to keep it that way for many more, so we decided to abseil and left the wall.

If we ever return I would much like to climb it again, though. I learned later that if we had endured the first two slab pitches, the rest would have been more and more "normal" climbing, the last 4 pitches even joining with the easy south ridge (here is a nice reference in German). Well, next time. Again it's all about planning…!

As a last retreat after two failures in one day, we went to the lower buttress just in front of the south wall left behind, "Bergsee Vorbau". There we found a fun, steep and fairly grade consistent climb of only three pitches that saved our day. The first two pitches are a joyous succession of jugs and cracks easy to protect in. The crux at the beginning of pitch 3is an interesting p.a., meaning that one can utilize slings to get past it with a reasonable effort. And right after that, the final pitch is a beautiful piaz climb on the angled ridge. Short, but nice!

One long abseil was enough to take us safely back to the block terrain a short distance above the start. That leaves more time to rejoice in our final success! ;-) We were happy to have managed something - anything at all.

The special, almost fell-like nature of the approach path flew by as we jogged down to the valley. An extraordinary path, stepped with stones and logs all the way, and never steep, grants optimal use of the poles. We were in such a good mood - and it only got better after we discovered the excellent matured cheese being sold at the parking. Don't miss it if you pass by, it's one of the best we've tried!

Part 1
Part 3