In late August 2018, Sandra embarked on a solo two-day paddle from Landfjärden in the southern Stockholm archipelago, encountering wildlife, weather and deep silence.

The first day began ominously with dark clouds and a drizzle in Landfjärden bay.
It didn't help that I, just about to embark from the pier, dropped a lid for the kayak that plummeted to the bottom. Those lids are crucial to keep water out, so there was no choice but dive down and comb the sediment below. After many attempts, having surveyed the area around the pier and inadvertently cut my fingertips to bleeding, a minute of mindful breaths finally helped muster the presence to go down one last time and find it.

The quiet drizzle ceased. I was still all alone at sea. Not a single boater around - how unusual!
Skirting Muskö and the nearby islands due east, the sky finally cleared and blessed the upcoming open-water crossing to Utö/Rånö with the day's first sunshine. With the sea graciously calm it was a joy to put some distance behind.

After crossing, a meal in quietude at Ängsholmen would power the continuation. Out here, the shift from sitting to moving meditation is seamless. I found the narrow mouth to the strait Rånösundet, which leads straight south-west towards Nåttarö. Here, while gliding along the east shore, a beaver came to greet her visitor. The furry creature stood up on her hind legs to get a better look, then jumped underneath the kayak and swam across the canal.

Finally, at Ängsholmen (same name, but another island!), muscles unaccustomed to paddling got a breather as camp was set up for the night.

The next day was another one of wildlife and weather. For a start, tedious tick-picking had already suggested the plentiful presence of roe deer. After the first few paddle strokes a few of them were found grazing by the shore.

Just to the south of Ängsholmen is the island group of Nåttarö. This area is a bird reserve, and the flat islets are indeed a sea bird paradise. It reeks heavily of fish and bird cries fill the sound-scape. Cormorants and gulls seem to be the most numerous here, though other sea birds and even a few white-tailed eagles were spotted, circling high above the sea-level circus.

Next up was a crossing west toward Yttre Gården, an island near Nynäshamn on the mainland. This crossing is lengthy, and was supposed to be broken up by the island Mällsten. However, while heading out the fog thickened rapidly, and although it must have been very close, Mällsten was never seen. Luckily, the compass alone turned out to be sufficient for navigation. After a long time with no visibility, the crossing ended precisely at the pre-determined spot on Yttre Gården. And the shore was first seen when less than 30 meter away! This success was celebrated with a picnic on a sandy beach, mystically wrapped in fog.

North of Yttre Gården is a beautiful island group, hidden from mainland by the islands Inre Gården and Bedarön. The small sheltered islands and islets offer a home to numerous herons, taking off one by one as the kayak floated by. Fog lingered, and the sea lay mirror-like. It was silent, peaceful, and quietly wondrous.

An upcoming crossing north to Yxlö would again lead through a veil of fog. I trusted the compass by now, aided by it all the way to the southern shore of Yxlö. Right on spot again! There, the faithful guide had fulfilled its duty. The fog finally lifted, and the next lengthy but easy stretch through Yxlö strait was enjoyed under the warm rays of the sun.

One last meal in the outdoors certainly helped fuel the remaining short crossing back to Landfärden. Wind in the back helped too, allowing the kayak to glide with ease toward the little pier where the trip began only yesterday. Time, already, to return to another world. That of people, of material comfort, of measuring and of giving ourselves over to time.